How one can strategy a luxurious model relaunch? Paul Andrew, who’s coming again in focus together with his namesake assortment after a three-year hiatus, is ranging from scratch.
“There’s [very little here] that’s paying homage to the previous,” mentioned the designer, who left his post as Ferragamo’s artistic director final Could, and has used the break to plot a brand new path.
“It’s been a tremendous time away from the distractions of the each day, and it made me take into consideration what I wished to do subsequent,” Andrew mentioned at Paris Vogue Week as we speak. “I missed my freedom, and I’m excited to be doing my very own factor once more.”
Andrew, who’s self funding the enterprise, is making a comeback with a smaller, extra tightly edited assortment geared toward a extra fashion-forward and youthful girl than he was catering to up to now.
For the designer, the thought course of behind the gathering pertains to his childhood expertise watching his dad and mom at work. “My father was the upholsterer to the Queen at Windsor. It was all about craft, custom, handmade, artisanship and all of those superb instruments,” he recalled. “Then my mom was working in expertise and it was fully totally different. It was about innovation, considering outdoors the field, what does the longer term seem like. That is the end result of these two issues collectively.”
Andrew’s sculptural heels have been impressed by the work of Jean Arp and Constantin Brâncusi. Some are normal in chrome, due to the designer’s partnership with an Italian sports-car manufacturing facility. Others are embellished with hand-applied pearls, rhinestones and bugle beads.
Plexiglass wedges have bouclé upholstery material uppers, whereas different types function patent leather-based injected with glitter. The designer additionally launched a particular embellishment — gemstone studs constituted of coral and turquoise.
Whereas the heel-heavy assortment dovetails with the shift again to dressier, glitzier types, nothing in Andrew’s assortment is above 95 millimeters. “I’m all about empowerment and never crippling individuals,” he joked.
Whereas quite a few massive retailers are already wanting to inventory the brand new assortment, Andrew — who can also be relaunching his web site — is decided to do issues his personal method.
“I need to develop the enterprise slowly and deliberately, and construct high quality relationships with individuals,” It’s method [fewer styles] than I had in the past — much less however higher,” he mentioned.